ATMs, sequined head scarves, and a fish delivery

Last week, I looked in my wallet. 2000 FCFA, plus change. A rough estimate, $3.00.

After getting my beautifully tailored taille basse from Thiama, my friend and tailor in Sokone, I was down to the change... Time to break into my secret stash. I had been to the ATM in Dakar but used most of the money over break. Taking the cash from the several hiding places and putting it all on my bed, I was looking at 10,000F in bills and maybe 1000F in coins (a little over $20.00) ... Even though I could feasibly kick it in Sokone for the next month and not spend a dime, except on cell credit... I have travel plans!

This means a trip to the ATM.

In Edina - hoping in the car, driving 5minutes, waiting in line, then punching in a 4digit pin code.

At the University - it's even easier because there are ATMs all over campus.

In Sokone, there is one bank. On any given day, the local credit union can be on a generator for hours. They won't even break my larger bills, so having an ATM is out of the question. Somewhat surprisingly given all of the tourism around the delta, the closest ATM is in Kaolack, two hours away.

I decided I had to make the trip because 1) Sokone operates on cash, 2) I need cash to travel, 3) I want more clothes made, 4) I wanted to get out of Sokone because I hate Wednesdays when the market is in town, 5) I am always up for adventure.

I was at the bus station by 9:00am - managing to get out of the house on time for once!

Because there are not many scheduled buses to Kaolack, I had to find a sept-places, a station wagon that seats seven people. In order to leave, it needs to be full. Luckily considering how Kaolack is the biggest town around here, it filled up pretty quickly.

By 9:20 we were on the road.

I was astonished to see how much faster it goes in a sept-places (which is direct Sokone to Kaolack) than the bus which stops at every village on the way. I was at the bus station in Kaolack by 10:15, less 1100 FCFA.

I found myself a motorcycle to take me to the main bank near the central market. 300 FCFA.

Pulling up in front of the bank, the motorcycle skidded on the sand. The driver jumped to the left, the bike skidded backwards, and I toppled to the right. Nothing serious - just a few scrapes, and a little embarrassed.

After I paid him, an older man came up and yelled at him in Wolof. A flurry of hand gestures, enough words that I knew to understand, and a large number of insults that I didn't know. He gave me back my money and walked away from his bike.

I walked into the bank and asked for the ATM. "Go to the teller."

At teller window #3:

Me-"Where's the ATM?"

T3-"It is out of order. What card do you have?"

He takes my card and holds it up for the other tellers to see. "Go to teller #1."

Teller #1:

T1-"Let me swipe your card."

"It is not working. Are you sure you can use this card to withdraw money?"

Me-"Yes. It works in the ATMs."

T1-"Let me try it again. Nope, no go. Maybe it only works in Italy." [No, I am not Italian.]

Me-"I've used it in Dakar."

T1-"Well it isn't working because the computer doesn't know the password."

Me- "The point of a password is that only I know it. Not the computer. Let me type it in."

T1- "No. The computer is supposed to know it. You don't need to punch in anything. Let me try 12345. Nope, that doesn't work."

Me-"That's because that is not my password."

T1-"You are going to have to go to another bank. Here is your card. Have a good day."

Me-"Wait. I am not from Kaolack. Where is there another bank?"

T1-"Go outside and you'll see it."

And so I leave with my card. But no money. Great.

Across the street there is another bank. I manage to withdraw money from the ATM with no problems. And guess what? That ATM didn't know my password either, I had to punch it in. Imagine that! (sarcasm)

I look at my phone. Despite the whole exchange in the bank, it was only 10:45. Great! I could be back in Sokone for lunch.

Hold on a second. There's a text from my host mother - call me when you are done. i have an errand for you before you come home.

Not a big deal. I'll just run to whatever store and then head home from there.

I call.

A fish delivery is coming in from the Casamance, southern Senegal. It should be at the bus station at 3:00pm.

Well, I guess I don't mind sticking around for a bit. But what am I to do between now and then?

My host father, Mr. Mane, is at the office, she tells me. I give him a call - turns out his office is not even three blocks away!

I stop by the office, but rather than sitting around until lunch, I head to an internet cafe.

Lunch at a restaurant.

As it nears 3 o'clock, we had back to the office. And wait. Wait some more. Finally at 6:00pm, we get a call to pick up the fish.

Mr. Mane drives me to the bus station on his motorcycle. Once there, we find no truck in sight.

Surprise, Surprise! They've already headed to the other side of Kaolack.

We jump back on the bike and make our way through town.

Pulling up outside of a Shell gas station, we find a large delivery truck, the friend driver, and a 3-ft long frozen fish(!). Yikes! It's almost as big as me.

Me, the fish, a bag of netting - we all get shoved into a cab and Mr. Mane follows us back to the bus station.

Already 7pm, finally, I get to head home!

We arrive in Sokone a little after 8pm. We drop off the other passengers, and I stay in the car because the driver is dropping me and the fish off at my front door. After 45 minutes of waiting, we pull out of the garage. 20 minutes at some random house, and then I am home by 9:15pm...

a long day. But now I've got cash - which means retail therapy (!) to put myself in a better mood.

... And that, my friends, is how to get to an ATM in semi-rural Senegal.