Tabaski, in all its glory

I was somewhat disappointed, somewhat relieved when the only people badgering me for a blog post were my parents. Disappointed because it was a shock to find out that people have other places to be, other things to do than to live vicariously through my haphazard blog posts. Relieved because that means I could procrastinate even further. In my defense, the internet has been out and work has been busy; however it has been over a week since Tabaski and yet I have to post about the most delicious holiday in Senegal.

Friday, October 26th, the majority of Senegal celebrated Tabaski, known as the fete du mouton. And it's most definitely all about the sheep. There's even a local TV competition for the most beautiful sheep in Dakar! As such, the first thing that I had to do in Sokone was assist with the sheep beautifying. Put me to work, why don't 'cha? After being gone for 2 years!

In all fairness, I arrived Wednesday afternoon, after 7 hours in a sept-place (modified station wagons that seat 7 passengers plus the driver - apparently other West African countries have neuf-places or 9-seaters, the horror!), and was able to relax for that afternoon and evening. Thursday, though, all hands on deck!

My host mother's youngest brother Bara (pictured), who's always looking cool - even when being thrown around by a sheep, and my host brother Momar got to work on about 5 sheep. Poor sheep though! They all sneezed when they got the soap in their eyes and nose. But beauty ain't easy!

On Friday, there's was no time for resting. While the men (including my 2.5 year-old host brother Abdou with his uncle Momar) headed to the mosque in the morning, us ladies started cooking. Actually the cooking started Thursday night as we sat in front of the TV with music videos playing and providing some entertainment as we chopped onions, after onions, after onions, and then some garlic for good measure.

All this chopping the night before meant that first thing in the morning we started piling the seasoning for the meat bright and early. Nothing like some garlic and pepper in the nostrils to wake you up! Back breaking labor, though, considering the next morning and through the whole weekend my back was sore.

This goat has no idea how lucky he is that he isn't a sheep!

My host brother/uncle Tapha butchering the meat. This was my job last time I celebrated Tabaski in Senegal - not entirely pleasant. I was only too happy to pass on the reins.

Traditionally each head of family is supposed to sacrifice a sheep. Although all those with means are encouraged to buy a sheep and share the wealth. As such my family, with all my host mother's brothers (who I only jokingly refer to as uncles since they are mostly my same age) and a few of them married, had more than enough meat to feed us all plus an army or two.

Most of the morning is spent preparing the marinade, sauce, seasoning, what-have-you for the meat for lunch and dinner. By the time lunch rolled around at about 3:00pm, I was starving.


Lunch was this fabulous meal of delicious mutton, onion sauce with plenty of pepper and garlic, salad (always a treat!), and freshly-plucked-from-the-fryer fries.

And as you can see, it was clearly enjoyed by all!

That evening the fun really began! As soon as the sun started to drop lower, we took the opportunity to wrap up our cooking and shed our aprons (or well-worn wrap skirts in this case) for our fancy holiday duds! Gaye-Gaye (my host mom's younger sister) and I paraded around town in our glitzy Tabaski outfits, paying the required visits to family and friends and an admirer or two!

Us ladies of the house - Gaye-Gaye (pictured left, in the long blue/black dress), Amina (my host sister in the rainbow outfit), Madame Mane (my host mom in the light blue dress and skirt) and I - were all too happy to pose for a few pictures! Oh, it's such a pain to get dressed up, but someone must do it!

Later that evening, us youngin's took to the streets, visited friends, drank attaya (tea), and even danced a little. I couldn't miss the opportunity to get some pictures with my host ''uncles'' who tease me mercilessly for my wolof, my height, my high-pitched sneeze and for whatever else they can come up with - like any good uncle or cousin would! (Khadim is on the left, and Bara's on the right.)

After all that work on Tabaski, I was more than ready for a day of rest on Saturday. It was great taking the time to visits friends in town from my study abroad year and to chill out with the family. It also provided the perfect opportunity to whip out the Scrabble!! "Seriche" is the gift that you bring when you come back from somewhere. Traveling through Senegal, it usually was a watermelon, some good fish, fresh milk, or goat cheese. Everyone likes to eat! Coming back to Senegal from the States, my host mom only had one request - Scrabble. I dropped an extra few bucks at Target to get her the vintage edition which came in a beautiful wooden box that will hopefully stand up to the elements, and the children, better than the cardboard box would've. For our first game, she bravely suggested English! And she held own - only 60 points behind!