Monday, November 12, 2012

Playing dress-up

I made the un-wise, totally illogical reason to leave a few too many of my Senegalese outfits at home. Somehow, the peanut butter and the marshmallows beat out culturally-appropriate clothing. Not to say that I'm running around in Daisy Dukes, but I could have thought that one through better...

All that means, though, is that I have all the more reason to get a few things made for me here. I've always heard that Senegalese tailors are the best in West Africa, and I have yet to be persuaded otherwise. I once met a Malian woman who was in Senegal specifically to get clothes made here.

The wonderful thing about gettings things made at a tailors, rather than buying them prêt-à-porter from the market or a shop is that (a) you can pick out whatever fabric/pattern you want, (b) it fits you perfectly (no hemming required!), and (c) no one else will have the same thing as you.

Tailor's ateliers here are something in themselves. They can be just a room rented in a house, where the tailor works with maybe one or two apprentices, or it can be a much larger operation with a shop on a major street with one boss and 5 or even more apprentices. I stumbled across this NYTimes article that I feel begins to convey what a tailor shop looks like. Keep in mind, though, that this is in New York not Dakar - and here, it's even more colorful and more chaotic.

Last time I was in Senegal, I had quite a few outfits made including both traditional clothes and more western styles. I did remember to bring a few with me this time, if not all, but for Tabaski, I wanted to get something new because I knew that my host family would both expect it (because they do it) but also appreciate it. I went one day to the fabric market in Dakar and picked up some beautiful Malian choup or hand-dyed fabric.





And I have to say, that despite my trepidations in using Ishmail (a tailor in the neighborhood who I had never used before) and in probably paying too much both because I'm a toubab but also because it was only a week before the holiday and they were extremely busy, I am quite happy with the result. (It also has a yellow wrap skirt with purple embroidery detailing, but gosh darn it, Sokone was just too hot for that.)

I then went to Omar for another dress. Omar is THE tailor for all expats at Tostan. He does amazing work and knows Western styles really well. A little pricier (maybe $4 more) than other tailors, but he does a magnificent job. I got some free fabric from a friend who was leaving Senegal, and so I thought, how can I lose? I went to Omar's for the first time, and fortunately for my wardrobe but unfortunately for my wallet, he did a great job and I can't wait to get something else made!






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