An ancient baobab whispers the secrets of scampering lizards and crystal waters

After a Wolof test on Friday morning and a rushed paper in the afternoon, I walked home feeling the weight of actually working at school while in Dakar. It will be difficult to return to the University of Minnesota senior year and be expected to crank out a senior thesis. It will be even difficult to write my spring semester research paper and this semester's 20-pg final paper. Other than getting cramps in my arm after waving a fan when the electricity goes out and the odd Wolof worksheet, life is pretty easy here in Dakar. Granted, I get to go home to hours of French and Wolof with the host family while still keeping an eye on the kids, rather than to Grey's Anatomy and Desperate Housewives on the TV.

And because of having a paper due for once, I wasn't I able to go for a Friday afternoon swim at the olympic pool.

I woke up Saturday morning looking forward to a day on an uninhabited island.I made sure to don a swimsuit should there a chance for some R&R on the beach. Ever since we visited Goree Island during orientation and I didn't think to bring a swimsuit, I make sure to have one anytime the words "island" or "beach" or just "free time" are mentioned. In Dakar, surrounded by water on three sides and called an "almost-island" in French, I never want to miss a chance to cool off in the water.
Meeting at WARC, we headed out in cabs for the short drive to the National Park Service station at the beach. Near Magic Land (an amusement park), I am happy that we were taking advantage of the natural wonders of the area rather than spending money on a ferris wheel that can be found at Mall of America.
We navigated the rocky coast line to make our way over to the pirogue (boat). Of note, there was a large fish skeleton, a torn button-down shirt, and some plastic bags to be seen. But what really took the cake was the ELEPHANT SKULL near the park service station. Trucked into the city from one of the national parks, I took it as a weird rock formation until closer inspection.

(Elke as conqueror)

After bumming around a bit, something that only Senegal can do so well, we headed out to the island. We all boarded the pirogue, wearing the required lifevest (why are they always orange?). As we neared the island, all that could be heard were "oohs" and "aahs". It was if none of us Toubabs had ever seen a pile of rock in water before. The guides of course just looked at us in wonder.

(totally thinking that this is some superheroe's underwater lair)

We motored in to a quite cove, a bay of the main island that was then blocked on one side by a smaller island. Waves were crashing in over the lower rocks, carrying the pure white crests of water into the pool. It was a beautiful sanctuary, away from the ferocity of the ocean and the chaos of Dakar.

Sadly swimming had to wait. Our guide took the group around the island. He pointed out the animals, minerals and vegetables of interest- although the animals were quite lacking as the only habitants of the island are avian and reptilian. And it terms of vegetation, there was much fauna without the flora. The most useful contribution of the guide was his cautionary words- "Uh, Elke, that plant you are about to hug... the chemicals on its leaves can blind you."

(cue music- we're following the leader, the leader, the leader...)

Walking around the island, it was devoid of any sign of man save for helpful arrows showing the way, a building which was never completed because of spirit (or djin) of the island, and a guard house which was given up to the lizard population of the island.

(anytime the settler tried to build up the walls, he would return the next day to find that the stones had simply fallen to the ground. finally, he had to accept the wishes of the island djin)
(the group at the top of the guard tower. the guard had the foresight to make offerings to the djin in order to be able to build his tower)
(lizards!!!)

Bends on the path along the edge of the cliffs would open up to reveal isolated coves and outcrops of black rocks painted by white bird feces. Never have I considered that bird poop could be taken as an art form. I'll let the masses decide for themselves.

Just as we Toubabs were starting to break down from the heat, we came upon one of the most magnificent sites I have ever seen. This alone would be worth the trip to Senegal.
This baobab is thought to be the oldest in Senegal. Over 800 years old, an offshoot from the primary trunk bears an inscription from the early 19th century. Because of the shallow topsoil that sits on volcanic rock, the tree grows in a bonzai style.



After a few hours in the sun with almost no shade to be found on the island, it was definitely time for a swim. The waters were delightfully cool and the high salt content made floating a dream. I hated to leave, but I guess MSID couldn't risk leaving a student stranded on an uninhabitated island in the Atlantic - somehow it might backfire and reflect badly on the program.